How to Build Your First Gaming PC: Complete Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Over the past several years, I've dedicated myself to researching PC hardware, tracking the latest component releases, and assisting friends with their first builds. This guide combines that hands-on experience with up-to-date benchmark data and insights from top tech reviewers. I'll guide you through each step, so by the end, you'll not only have assembled a fully functional gaming PC but also gained a deep understanding of how it all works.

How to Build Your First Gaming PC: Complete Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Building your own gaming PC is genuinely easier than most people think, and the advantages go beyond just saving money. When you buy a pre-built system, you're paying a 15-25% markup for someone else to assemble it. But more importantly, you're giving up control. You can't choose individual components, you don't understand what's actually inside, and when something needs upgrading, you're stuck replacing entire systems instead of swapping out one part. When you build, you're not just assembling hardware, you're learning how modern computers actually work. You understand why your GPU matters more than your CPU for gaming. You know how to diagnose problems. You can upgrade components years from now instead of buying a completely new machine. I'm going to walk you through this step-by-step. By the end, you'll have built a fully functional gaming PC with your own hands. More importantly, you'll understand it.

Part 1: Understanding the Essential Components

Before you make a purchase, let's discuss what each component actually does and why it matters specifically for gaming performance. Everything here reflects what's actually available and worth buying right now.

CPU (Processor): The Brain of Your PC

Your CPU is the decision-maker of your system. It handles calculations, processes game logic, and manages everything happening in the background. CPU isn't actually the limiting factor anymore, your GPU is. This is important because it changes how you should budget. A few years ago, the CPU was critical. In 2025, you could pair a mid-range CPU with a high-end GPU and get better gaming results than the opposite pairing.

Intel Core Ultra: Intel completely redesigned their desktop lineup with the Core Ultra series. These aren't incremental updates, they're genuinely different architecture:

• Core Ultra 5 245K: Solid mid-range option. Delivers excellent 1440p gaming at a reasonable price point. Think of this as Intel's answer to value gaming
• Core Ultra 7 265K: The new sweet spot for gaming. You're getting more cores (12 P-cores + 8 E-cores) and better efficiency than previous generations. For pure gaming? Only 3-5% faster than the Core Ultra 5, but you get better streaming and content creation capability if you need it
• Core Ultra 9 285K: Maximum performance tier. Overkill for gaming alone, but fantastic if you game and do heavy workloads simultaneously

The real story here is efficiency. Core Ultra CPUs use less power than their predecessors while delivering similar or better performance.

Suggested for You

AMD Ryzen 9000 Series: AMD's refreshed its entire stack with the Ryzen 9000 series, and here's where it gets interesting:

• Ryzen 5 9600X: Competes directly with Intel's Core Ultra 5. AMD has historically offered better value here, though Intel's latest generation has closed that gap considerably
• Ryzen 7 9700X: The value champion in my view. You're getting excellent gaming performance with more multithreading than Intel's equivalent at a lower price point. If you stream or create content alongside gaming, this hits a sweet spot
• Ryzen 9 9950X: High-end option with 16 cores. Excellent for gaming + heavy content creation workflows, though the gaming performance gains are minimal compared to the 9700X

Here's why this matters:in 2025, the gap between Intel and AMDfor gaming has essentially vanished. Your choice should be based on value, platform features, and whether you do non-gaming workloads. Both are genuinely excellent.

Budget guidance: Your CPU should represent roughly 15-20% of your total build cost, not more. I see first-time builders make mistakes here constantly, they overspend on the processor and underfund the GPU, then wonder why their frame rates disappoint. Don't fall into that trap.

GPU (Graphics Card): The Performance Powerhouse

This is where gaming performance actually lives. The GPU renders every pixel you see. It handles ray tracing (realistic lighting), applies textures, and processes all the visual calculations that make games look incredible. A weak GPU means lower frame rates and reduced visual settings period.

NVIDIA's RTX 50-Series: This is a significant generational leap, not just an incremental update:

• RTX 5090: The absolute flagship. If money isn't a constraint and you want maximum everything, here's where you go. Handles 4K gaming at ultra settings with ray tracing and frame generation enabled. This isn't overkill for enthusiasts, it's the ceiling
• RTX 5080: The new powerhouse. This isn't just an incremental update from the RTX 4090; early real-world testing shows an approximately 35-40% performance improvement. Handles 4K gaming at high-to-ultra settings with ray tracing enabled. Here's the practical reality: if you want genuine 4K performance in demanding games, the 5080 is the threshold
• RTX 5070 Ti: The new sweet spot for high-end 1440p and entry 4K gaming. This is where most people should seriously consider going if they want excellent performance that'll last several years
• RTX 5070: Positioned for solid 1440p gaming at high-to-ultra settings with ray tracing. Think of this as the "comfortable 1440p" option without the premium price

Here's the real talk: NVIDIA holds about 85% of the gaming GPU market in 2025. They offer better driver support, a more stable ray tracing implementation, and improved DLSS 4 technology (AI upscaling that maintains image quality while significantly boosting FPS). AMD is improving, but NVIDIA's ecosystem advantage is real.

AMD's GPU:

• Radeon RX 7900 XTX: Competes with NVIDIA's high-end tier. You're looking at a slightly cheaper price tag, competitive performance, though NVIDIA maintains about a 2-5% advantage in most games
• Radeon RX 7800 XT: The value king in AMD's lineup. Better price-to-performance than NVIDIA's equivalent tier, though fewer advanced AI features like DLSS

This is crucial: Your GPU should eat 35-45% of your total budget. If you're building a $1,500 system, spend $525-675 here. This is non-negotiable if you want good gaming performance. I can't emphasize this enough. The GPU determines your frame rates more than anything else.

Pricing: GPU prices fluctuate constantly based on stock and demand. When the RTX 50-series launched, the RTX 40-series dropped in price. This might actually be a good time to grab a deal on previous-gen if budget is tight. Check current pricing on Amazon and Newegg before committing to a budget.

Motherboard: The Nervous System

Your motherboard connects every component. Good news: you don't need an expensive one. You need one that's compatible with your CPU and has the features you actually want.

For Intel (Core Ultra):

• Socket: LGA1851 (completely new socket for Core Ultra generation)
• This means you can't use older boards, you need a board specifically designed for Core Ultra
• Best boards in this socket: ASUS ROG Strix Z890-E, MSI MPG Z890 Edge WiFi

For AMD (Ryzen 9000 Series):

• Socket: AM5 (same as previous generation Ryzen 7000 series)
• Direct CPU compatibility, drop in your new Ryzen 9000 chip, and it works without BIOS updates in many cases
• Best boards: ASUS ROG Strix X870-E, MSI MPG B850 Edge WiFi

What to verify before buying:

• Socket compatibility: Non-negotiable. They're not interchangeable, and there's no workaround
• PCIe 5.0 support: The latest standard. Future-proofs your build for upcoming GPUs (PCIe 5.0 is double the bandwidth of PCIe 4.0)
• USB connectivity: Enough USB headers for your case's front panel ports and devices
• WiFi 7 built-in: The latest wireless standard. Faster than WiFi 6E, though most gamers won't notice the real-world difference unless you're far from your router
• Power delivery: Look for boards with quality VRMs (voltage regulation modules). This matters more if you plan to overclock or run top-tier CPUs

My honest opinion: Mid-range boards ($160-240) deliver 95% of the performance of premium boards ($400+). The expensive boards often feature premium audio components, extensive RGB lighting, or aesthetic extras you probably don't need. I'd recommend models like the MSI MPG B850E Edge WiFifor AMD builds or the ASUS TUF Z890-Plus WiFi for Intel builds. They have solid power delivery, good connectivity, and won't break the bank.

RAM (Memory): The Key to Seamless Multitasking

RAM is your system's short-term memory. More RAM means your computer can handle multiple tasks without slowdowns. When you're gaming on Discord, Chrome tabs, and Spotify run simultaneously, RAM keeps everything smooth. 16GB is the minimum comfortable level. 32GB gives you headroom if you stream, create content, or run heavy applications while gaming. 8GB will technically work, but you'll notice stutter when alt-tabbing or running background apps, trust me on this.

DDR5:

In 2025, DDR5 isn't the premium option anymore, it's just what you get. New platforms use DDR5 exclusively. Here's what changed:

• Speed: DDR5-6400 and DDR5-7200 are common. Practical FPS improvement in gaming between these speeds? Only 1-2%, but future games might benefit more
• Timing: Look for CAS latency 32 or lower. This affects system responsiveness slightly
• Real-world impact: In gaming, you'll see minimal difference between DDR5-6000 and DDR5-7200. The bigger difference is DDR5 vs. the old DDR4 overall

You could go with DDR5-6400 and save $20-30, or step up to DDR5-7200 for future-proofing. I'd recommend the 7200 MHz option if the price difference is reasonable.

What to buy specifically: Look for DDR5-6400 or DDR5-7200 kits in 16GB or 32GB capacities. Brands like G.Skill Flare X5, Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB, and Kingston Fury Beast are reliable and widely available. Expect to pay $60-90 for 16GB, $120-180 for 32GB.

Storage: The Heart of Your Data

You need fast storage for your operating system and games. Slow storage = slow game loading and system boot times that'll frustrate you.

The setup: Get a 1TB NVMe SSD (PCIe 5.0 M.2 form factor) as your main drive. PCIe 5.0 is the latest standard, faster than PCIe 4.0, and most new motherboards support it. If you play 10+ games simultaneously or create content, add a 2TB secondary SSD later for storage expansion.

Why PCIe 5.0 matters right now: PCIe 4.0 drives max out around 7,000 MB/s. PCIe 5.0 drives hit 10,000+ MB/s. In practical terms? Game load times drop from 10-15 seconds to 6-10 seconds. It's the difference between acceptable and genuinely fast.

Reliable PCIe 5.0 drives for 2025:

• Samsung 990 Pro: Proven performance, widely available, solid endurance ratings
• Crucial P5 Elite: Excellent value option without sacrificing performance
• WD Black SN850X: Solid performer with good thermals
• Kingston Fury Beast Pro: Good all-rounder with competitive pricing

Check current benchmarks at TechPowerUp for the latest comparisons. Prices have dropped significantly you can find 1TB PCIe 5.0 drives for $80-120 now, making them practical for most builds.

The Power Supply: The Unsung Hero

Never cheap out on the PSU. A failing power supply can destroy your entire build: CPU, GPU, motherboard, everything. I've seen it happen, and it's genuinely not pretty.

Wattage calculation for builds: For most mid-range builds with RTX 5070 Ti or RTX 5070, 850W is solid. For high-end builds (RTX 5080 or RTX 5090), go to 1000W or higher. Here's the actual math: add up component power draws (Core Ultra 7 pulls ~253W, RTX 5070 Ti ~375W, rest of system ~150W = 778W total), then add 20% headroom (934W). Round up to the nearest standard wattage (1000W in this case).

Quality matters: Look for 80+ Gold certification (or higher: Platinum/Titanium). This certification means the PSU is at least 87% efficient, which translates to less waste heat and a longer lifespan. It's worth the extra cost.

Proven brands with strong 2025 models:

• Corsair RM1000e: 1000W fully modular, excellent reviews and reliability
• EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G7: High efficiency, well-regarded in gaming communities
• Seasonic FOCUS GX-1000: Premium option, legendary reliability across decades

The Case: Your Component's Home

The case holds everything together and manages airflow. You don't need anything fancy, but airflow genuinely matters for temperatures and component longevity.

What to prioritize: Good case reviews often mention temperature performance. Look for cases with solid front-panel airflow (mesh design, not fully blocked). Most gaming builds use ATX mid-tower cases, which have plenty of space and good stock ventilation.

Budget: A $60-100 case with good airflow beats a $250 case with poor airflow every single time.

Current solid options:

• NZXT H510 Flow: Around $100, good airflow, clean aesthetics
• Corsair 4000 Airflow: $80-100, excellent thermals, proven reliability
• Fractal Design Core 1000: Budget option that doesn't sacrifice airflow for price

CPU Cooler

Your CPU generates heat. You have two paths: stock cooler or aftermarket.

Stock cooler: Modern stock coolers from Intel and AMD work fine for gaming on mid-range CPUs. Intel's latest stock coolers and AMD's Wraith Stealth keep temperatures under 80°C during gaming for non-overclocked systems. If you're not overclocking, the included cooler handles the job without complaints.

Aftermarket coolers: Run quieter and cooler ($50-120 range). The Noctua NH-D15 chromax, BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4, and Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE are popular choices. Benefits: 10-15°C lower temps, quieter operation, and better aesthetics if you care about that.

Here's my take for your first build: the stock cooler is perfectly acceptable. You're not leaving performance on the table. Upgrade to aftermarket later if you want quieter operation, prefer cooler-running components, or plan to overclock. Don't feel pressured to buy a $100 cooler for a first build

Suggestions Just for You

Part 2: Choosing a Budget and Building Your Parts List

Let's talk real money using 2025 pricing, because gaming PCs exist at every price point with different performance outcomes.

Budget Tiers and What You Actually Get

$900-1,300 Budget: Solid 1080p & Entry 1440p Gaming

• Example build: Core Ultra 5 245K, RTX 5070, 16GB DDR5, 850W PSU
• Performance: 100-120+ fps in esports titles (Valorant, CS2), 70-90 fps in demanding AAA games at high settings, smooth 1440p for less demanding titles
• Best for: Competitive gaming, or casual AAA gaming at high refresh rates

$1,400-2,000 Budget: Comfortable 1440p Gaming

• Example build: Core Ultra 7 265K, RTX 5070 Ti, 32GB DDR5, 850W PSU
• Performance: 90-110+ fps in most AAA titles at high-to-ultra settings, 60+ fps at ultra ray tracing, smooth and future-proof
• Best for: The most common recommendation for 2025. You get excellent visuals and smooth performance without extreme costs

$2,000-2,800 Budget: High-End 1440p or Solid 4K

• Example build: Core Ultra 7 265K, RTX 5080, 32GB DDR5, 1000W PSU
• Performance: 100+ fps at 1440p ultra, 60-75 fps at 4K high-to-ultra settings, genuinely future-proofed
• Best for: Future-proofing your system for the next 3-4 years, or if you want maximum visual fidelity

$2,800+ Budget: Maximum 4K Performance with Ray Tracing

• Example build: Core Ultra 9 285K, RTX 5080, 64GB DDR5, 1200W PSU
• Performance: 80-100+ fps at 4K with ray tracing enabled, overkill for most users but gorgeous
• Best for: People who want theabsolute best performance or are willing to pay for overkill

Verdict: More expensive doesn't always mean better gaming. A $1,600 build gives you 85% of a $3,000 build's performance for just over half the cost. Diminishing returns are genuinely real, and spending beyond what you need is just leaving money on the table.

Where to Source Components Safely

PCPartPicker.com is still your best friend. It aggregates prices across retailers, automatically checks component compatibility, and flags any issues before you buy. This single tool prevents costly mistakes.

Also check:

• Amazon: Fast shipping, good return policy, but sometimes not the cheapest
• Newegg: Competitive pricing, decent selection, occasional sales
• Micro Center: If you have one nearby, in-store pickup and staff expertise can be valuable

Pro tip: The RTX 50-series is still new. This means RTX 40-series cards you can get at a lower price. If you're building on a budget, this is actually a good time to grab previous-gen GPUs at discounts while they're still powerful.

Part 3: Building Your PC

Alright, components are here. Time to actually build this thing. Here's where it gets real, and where I promise you it's not as scary as it sounds.

What You'll Need (Tools)

• Screwdriver: Phillips head, preferably magnetic (prevents screws from falling into your case)
• Anti-static wrist strap: Optional but genuinely recommended. Static electricity can damage components ($0.99 on Amazon)
• Flat, clean workspace: A large table or cardboard box works
• Motherboard manual: Seriously important. Different boards have different header placements and features

Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace and Inspect Everything

Clear your workspace and lay down a static-safe surface. Cardboard works fine. Unbox everything and verify all components arrived undamaged. Because shipping damage isn't uncommon. Check for bent pins on CPUs, dents on heatsinks, obviously cracked components, or loose RAM sticks. This is your last chance to catch issues before assembly. You can't claim damage after you've installed everything.

Step 2: Install the Power Supply

Open your case and locate the PSU compartment (usually the bottom-back of most cases).

How to do it:

1. Orient the PSU so the fan faces down (if your case has ventilation holes on the bottom) or faces up (if not). The fan direction affects cooling efficiency
2. Align the four screw holes
3. Secure with the four screws provided, snug but not gorilla-tight. Over-tightening can damage the PSU

Why this order:installing the PSU first creates a stable foundation. Plus, having it in place makes cable routing easier later and prevents accidentally forgetting to install it.

Step 3: Install the I/O Shield

Your motherboard comes with a thin metal shield that fits the rectangular opening at the back of your case. Pop it in until it clicks. This protects internal components and looks professional. It's a small detail that actually matters.

Step 4: Install the CPU and RAM onto the Motherboard

This is the part that intimidates people, but it's actually straightforward. Place your motherboard on a non-conductive surface (the cardboard box is fine).

Installing the CPU:

1. Lift the retention bracket on the CPU socket (it swings up)
2. Align the tiny notches on your CPU with the keys in the socket, they only fit one way. You literally cannot install it backwards
3. Gently place the CPU in (don't force it, if it needs pressure, you have it wrong)
4. Lower the bracket to lock it in place

Important: your CPU has pins or contacts. Don't touch these. Handle it by the edges only.

Installing RAM:

1. Open the clips on both ends of a RAM slot (they swing outward)
2. Align the notch on your RAM stick with the key in the slot
3. Press down firmly until both clips click and lock into place automatically
4. You should hear a satisfying click, and the RAM should sit flush with the slot

Note: RAM installation is one of the most common failure points because people don't press hard enough. Push firmly. It should click into place with real authority. If it doesn't click, reseat it.

Step 5: Install the CPU Cooler

Stock cooler installation: This varies by CPU. Intel stock coolers typically use push-pins. AMD uses a retention bracket. Follow the instructions that came with your CPU, they're specific to your model.

Aftermarket cooler installation: Read your cooler's manual carefully. Different coolers install differently (air coolers vs. liquid coolers vs. tower coolers have different mounting mechanisms). Don't improvise this part.

Thermal paste: If your cooler doesn't come with pre-applied paste, apply a small pea-sized dot to the center of the CPU. The cooler's mounting pressure spreads it. More paste ≠ better cooling, excess paste actually insulates and reduces contact.

Step 6: Install the Motherboard into the Case

Critical step: motherboards touching the metal case cause shorts. That's why standoffs exist, brass posts that create a gap.

1. Check your case for installed standoffs (they're usually pre-installed in the right places)
2. Align your motherboard's screw holes with the standoffs
3. Insert screws into each hole and tighten snugly (not gorilla-tight—you can crack the board)
4. Verify the I/O ports line up with the shield opening at the back

Common mistake: forgetting standoffs and directly screwing the motherboard to the case. This will short out and destroy components. Double-check this.

Step 7: Install the GPU (Graphics Card)

1. Locate your PCIe x16 slot. It's the longest slot, usually directly below the CPU
2. Remove the bracket covering the slot opening on the case's back panel
3. Open the retention clip at the end of the PCIe slot (it swings up or out depending on your motherboard)
4. Align your GPU with the slot and push down firmly. You should feel resistance, but it should go in smoothly
5. The retention clip should click into the notch on the GPU automatically
6. Secure the GPU bracket to the case with screws

Important: your GPU uses significant power. Make sure you properly connect power connectors in the next steps, a loose power connector is a common reason for system instability.

Step 8: Install the Storage Drive (NVMe SSD)

1. Locate the M.2 slot on your motherboard (check your manual there might be multiple)
2. Remove the small screw at the slot's end
3. Insert your NVMe drive into the slot at a 30-degree angle
4. Press down gently until flat, and insert the screw to secure it
5. You should hear/feel a small click when seated properly

Note: don't force it. M.2 drives slide in smoothly if oriented correctly. If you encounter resistance, you probably have the angle wrong.

Step 9: Route Your Power Cables (Cable Management)

This looks chaotic, but follows a simple system:

Essential connections:

• 24-pin ATX connector → Motherboard (usually right side)
• 8-pin or 4+4-pin CPU power → Above the CPU socket (labelled on motherboard)
• PCIe power (6-pin or 8-pin) → GPU power connectors (your GPU manual specifies exactly how many)
• SATA power (if using SATA drives) → Drive power connectors

Pro tip: Route cables behind the motherboard tray when possible. It looks cleaner, improves airflow, and prevents cables from interfering with fans. All power connectors should click firmly into place. Loose connections cause random shutdowns, crashes, or the system won't boot at all.

Step 10: Final Pre-Power Checks

Before you flip the switch, go through this checklist:

• CPU is seated and the cooler is mounted securely (give the cooler a gentle push—it shouldn't move)
• RAM sticks are fully clicked in (both ends should have no clips sticking up)
• GPU is fully inserted, and power connectors are firmly attached
• Motherboard is secured with screws to standoffs (at least 4-6 screws minimum)
• All power connectors are seated firmly and click into place
• The power supply switch is flipped to ON

Step 11: Power On and Initial Boot

1. Close your case
2. Flip the power supply switch to ON (back of the PSU)
3. Press the case power button and hold for 1-2 seconds
4. Listen and look: fans should spin, lights should turn on, no burning smells

If nothing happens: don't panic. Check the power supply switch, verify the case power button isn't stuck, and reseat the RAM, it solves 90% of no-boot issues. If it boots successfully: great! Now comes the software part.

Step 12: Install Windows and Drivers

You need to install Windows on your new SSD. Here's what to do:

1. Grab a USB drive (8GB or larger) and a computer with internet access
2. Go to Microsoft's Windows download page
3. Create a bootable USB using the Windows Media Creation Tool
4. Insert the USB into your new PC and boot from it (press F12 or Delete during startup to access the boot menu, check your motherboard manual for the specific key)
5. Follow the Windows installation wizard, select your NVMe drive as the installation destination
6. Once Windows is installed, download drivers from your motherboard and GPU manufacturers' websites
7. Install NVIDIA/AMD GPU drivers first, then motherboard chipset drivers

Windows will auto-detect generic drivers, but the official drivers from manufacturers are more optimized and handle updates better.

Part 4: Post-Build Setup and Optimization

Update Your BIOS and Drivers

BIOS updates: Download the latest BIOS from your motherboard manufacturer's website. Use their update utility to flash it. Updated BIOS often includes CPU compatibility improvements, stability fixes, and sometimes performance improvements.

Chipset drivers: Your motherboard manufacturer provides these. They're not glamorous but genuinely improve system stability and ensure all features work properly.

Monitor Temperatures

Download MSI Afterburner (free, works with any GPU) to monitor temperatures while gaming.

What's normal for 2025 components:

• CPU: 60-80°C while gaming (up to 90°C is safe but indicates cooling concerns or poor airflow)
• GPU: 70-85°C while gaming (GPUs tolerate higher temps than CPUs)
• Higher than these = something's wrong with cooling or your case airflow

If temperatures exceed 90°C consistently, check that your cooler is properly mounted and your case has adequate airflow. Dust buildup can reduce cooling efficiency surprisingly quickly.

Install Games and Find Your Settings Sweet Spot

Download Steam or your preferred platform. Start with a demanding game (Cyberpunk 2077, Black Myth: Wukong, Alan Wake 2, Dragon's Dogma 2).

How to optimize settings:

1. Start at high settings and measure fps with an overlay (Steam's built-in fps counter works, or use Afterburner)
2. If fps is lower than your monitor's refresh rate, reduce a setting (resolution, graphics quality, ray tracing)
3. Find your balance between visual quality and frame rate smoothness

Most people target 60+ fps (smooth), 100+ fps (very smooth), or 144+ fps (if you have a 144Hz monitor).

Part 5: Troubleshooting Common Issues

PC Won't Turn On

Check in this order:

1. Power supply switch is flipped ON (seriously, this happens constantly, check twice)
2. The power cable is fully plugged into both the wall outlet and the PSU
3. The case power button is working (try holding it down for 3 seconds)
4. RAM isn't fully seated, reseat it firmly

RAM seating solves 90% of no-boot issues. Push it down hard until you hear both clicks.

PC Turns On, But No Display

1. Verify the monitor is plugged into the GPU (not the motherboard), if you have a dedicated GPU. Many people forget this
2. Reseat the GPU fully, push it down hard
3. Reseat the RAM
4. Try booting with one RAM stick, then the other (one might be defective)

High Temperatures (90°C+)

1. Verify the CPU cooler is properly mounted, reseat if needed and reapply thermal paste
2. Check that thermal paste was actually applied (sounds silly, but it happens)
3. Verify case fans are spinning and intake/exhaust are balanced (you need positive or neutral airflow, not blocked intakes)
4. Check case airflow. Is the front panel mesh blocked by dust or cable clutter?

Random Shutdowns

Usually indicates power delivery or overheating issues:

1. Verify all power connectors are firmly seated (especially GPU and CPU power)
2. Check PSU wattage—if you're close to the limit, you might be exceeding it during peak load
3. Monitor temperatures—overheating can cause shutdowns too
4. Update BIOS—sometimes stability issues are fixed by BIOS updates

Final Check: You Actually Built This

Congratulations. You just accomplished something that intimidates most people. You didn't just purchase a computer, you built it with your own hands. You understand how it works. You know where each component sits and what it does.

That's worth something real. When something breaks, you can diagnose it instead of panicking. When you want to upgrade, you know exactly what to replace. You can help friends with their builds because you've done it yourself. Go play something good. You've earned it.